* We know the ebb and flow of the tide results from lunar
gravitation. So, what is the cause of waves?
They are usually caused by the wind. It's true that tidal waves (tsunamis) are
created by earthquakes, but this is rather exceptional. So, what is wind? It's a
current of air. An air current is a product of solar energy. A mass of air
warmed and lightened by the sun rises, then cooler air comes in to fill the
void. The same is true with the evaporation of the seawater. And the rotation of
the earth, of course, affect the flow of air and its direction.
* A low pressure area that develops in the
tropics or subtropics can grow and intensify to an extreme called a typhoon.
Typhoons that can do tremendous damage send big surges even when they are still
far away from land. The coastline of our island, for example, boils white when
these surges reach the shore. Rough waves pound the coral reefs, causing
spraying, until they reach the sandy beach. I never get weary of watching the
ever-changing irregular surfs.
Picture 1 shows the coast of
Tsuchibama, Kasari-town, washed by the billows from Typhoon No.12. ( The picture
was shot on September 18, 2007.)
Picture 2 shows Tebiro Beach, Tatsugo-town, which is popular among surfers. (Also
shot on September 18.)
Picture 3 shows Ohama Beach, Amami City. The first autumnal monsoon called Miinishi
makes the sea choppy. Tourists seem to enjoy the feel of the sand. (This
was shot on October 20, 2007.)